Reflections on Dachau

That Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial Site exists is important. Its a reminder of part of Germany's past but also a reminder to the world of how, division, racism and absolute abuse of power can lead to indescribable evil. 

Dachau sits just north of Munich. Driving there on a lovely sunny day, using quiet country roads through farmland, rolling hills and woodland was soothing. The fields were full of ripening crops and roadside verges abundant with wild flowers. We stopped to look at a field of sunflowers vibrant against the green fields surrounding them. A young hare stood motionless in a field and then took off in a leisurely way - but still too fast for the camera.



It was a contrast to the colour of the bleak grey concrete, black iron gate and barbed wire of Dachau. Perhaps our journey through such a bucolic landscape made the appearance of Dachau seem even more stark.

Dachau was the first Nazi concentration camp. An excellent museum tells its history, but also, importantly, sets out the social, cultural and economic conditions in Germany in the 1920's and 30's that saw the National Socialists rise to power. Propaganda, suppression and targeting of opponents, the blaming of minorities, attacks on newspapers and the media and 'fake news' all helped  create a narrative that appealed to popular feelings of discontent. Promises to make things 'great again' appealed  

There are uncomfortable parallels with what is happening in the world today. We have autocratic but charismatic leaders who are doing the same sorts of things to gain and consolidate power. Erdogan, Putin, Trump.

Dachau was also the first concentration camp in Germany. It opened in 1933. At first it was used for political prisoners but as the Nazi's consolidated their hold on power it came to house Jehovah' witnesses, homosexual, and emigrant prisoners and, eventually, Jews.

Entering through the gateway where so many thousands of poor souls met their fate was a sobering experience. The iron gates have a simple but chilling phrase "Arbeit macht frei" which translates as Work Sets You Free. The simple truth is that over 32,000 prisoners lost their lives at Dachau, through forced labour, beatings, torture, medical experimentation, starvation and disease. Its likely many more deaths were undocumented.


Dachau was liberated by US forces in 1945. Its now a memorial site and there are several religious memorials. All are incredibly moving whatever your faith. Most of the original buildings have been demolished and this helps the visitor get a sense of scale of the size of the site.  

From the outside of the perimeter fence, Dachau
Most distressing of all was the crematorium in which murdered prisoners bodies were disposed off - sometimes they were executed by hanging from the rafters in front of the crematorium ovens. Its hard to find adequate words to even begin to think about the evil that took place here. Perhaps most terrifying of all was the mundane bureaucracy that dehumanised those who enabled and acted out such evil. 

We were very quiet in the car for the rest of the drive that day. Visiting Dachau wasn't a joy but was, I think, important. We take for granted the democratic freedoms we enjoy and it easy to forget the past. I am glad we took the time during an otherwise carefree trip  to remember those who died at Dachau and to reflect on why today it remains so very important to confront those who would seek to promote hatred, division and discord.




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