Bavarian Alpine Adventures
There are words or phrases that bring back memories. 'Garmisch-Partenkirchen' is one of those phrases. The memory it triggers for me is of watching 'Ski- Sunday' in my early 20's (probably recovering from a late Saturday night and the inevitable consumption of alcohol).
I never had much interest in skiing as a sport but it was a TV programme that required minimal effort to watch and was quite soothing. From time to time a presenter would introduce a downhill event from Garmisch-Partenkirchen and for some reason the name stuck. Now, in 2018, I found myself on the road to this place, which many will know is one of the premier alpine resorts in the Bavarian Alps, but prior to my Brexit Exit tour planning had been simply a name to me.
To reach Garmisch-Partenkirchen we took a 'short cut' across Austria, through part of the Austrian Tyrol. Although it was cloudy the scenery was magnificent.
Arriving in Garmisch-Partenkirchen we found our hotel had stunning balcony views of the mountains. Garmisch-Partenkirchen is only a short distance from Zugspitz, Germany's highest mountain at 2,962 m (9,718 ft). Opposite and popular with hikers, is Mount Wank. Mrs B asked me what the meaning of Mount Wank was in English. I explained I wasn't planning to google this in German as I wasn't confident the search results would necessary provide the answers she was looking for = and might lead to some very dubious videos.
The weather had temporarily cooled and we walked into town admiring the painted houses - all telling stories about the town or the occupants. After getting our bearings we settled on a traditional restaurant and had another hearty meal.
The following morning the weather remained cool but the summit of Zugspitz was visible so we decided to chance it and go to the very top. Fortunately all the hard work is taken out of this endeavour. A train and cable car combination get you almost to the summit.
We caught the first train near the railway station and the journey started as the train rattled along through the wide, green valley passing farms and small houses. Then we changed trains to a cogwheel train that continued the steeper ascent.
After a while we entered a very long, dark tunnel before emerging at Zugspitzbahn - the terminus of the train, on a plateau about 200 meters below the summit. Before continuing our journey we paused to explore the plateau.
When we'd left the town the temperature had been a pleasant 21 degrees. Up here it was cold - and the wind chill made it feel colder. Flurries of rain and sleet came racing in. Despite this the air was clean and the views were stunning.
A small chapel stood as a tiny outcrop, minuscule against the mountain peaks and louring clouds behind.
After half an hour or so (and having braved the elements for long enough) we used the Zugspitz integrated transport system - and got the cable car to the summit.
It is fair to say its not a wild and desolate spot. Viewing platforms, cable car stations and a restaurant make it quite a commercial operation. The summit is topped by a cross - a common feature in the Bavarian Alps. This part of Germany had, and still has, strong catholic roots.
It was still pretty cold and cloudy so we had a hot chocolate to warm up and, as is often the case in the mountains, the weather cleared, the sun came out and transformed the views. We had spectacular views in all directions and particularly across to Austria where the mountain tops stretched off far into the distance.
As we gazed into the distance an alpine chough landed in front of us, hopped around a bit, and presumably, deciding we were not that entertaining, took to the air to look for something else of interest.
Part of the Zugspitz summit is in Austria so we walked across another border and could, if we had wanted to, taken a cable car down to the Austrian side of the mountain.
Our return journey was somewhat faster and on the German side. A new cable car descends 2000 meters in 10 minutes to Eibsee, a small glacial lake at the foot of Zugspitz.
I hadn't planned to circumnavigate Eibsee, even though it was very beautiful but Mrs B took off on a loop path and before we knew it we'd walked around the whole lake, through evergreen forest, the paths dotted with occasional patches of wild strawberries.
It took a couple off hours to walk all around Eibsee, the weather had changed again and we raced to Eibsee train station to return to Garmish Partenkirchen before we got thoroughly drenched. By the time we got off the train the sun was out again and the temperature was back to 20+ degrees. We walked through a suburban area for about a mile and a half admiring the neat colourful homes, many decorated with murals including a few more contemporary designs. With weary legs, we were glad to see our hotel, and needless to say slept well that night!
Soon it was time to move on again We were headed to the most South Easterly corner of Germany and the town of Berchtesgaden. Because we had no real need to hurry, I plotted a leisurely drive through Austria (again) and made a brief detour to Italy (as you do).
We drove over the Brenner pass and crossed the Italian border at the village of the same name, right on the border. It was a strange sort of place. A major transport hub with the road and railway passing through, Brenner has an 'outlet village' (typically corporate and sterile) but also had a hectic local market on the day we visited. I can only guess Italian prices are cheaper than in Austria as lots of Austrians had flocked to the market. The adjoining supermarket had bottles of wine at ridiculously cheap prices. I bought a decent bottle of red for €1.69!
After coffee we returned to Austria and eventually arrived in Berchtesgaden.
Unfortunately our time in this part of Bavaria coincided with 24 hours of persistent rain. This scuppered plans for hiking so we had to look for indoor things to do. Many people visit Berchtesgaden because it is close to Hitler's Eagles Nest. I didn't want to visit this tourist 'attraction'. I accept people have a historical interest in Hitler's life, but I felt no need to participate. This part of Germany was a Nazi stronghold in the 1930's through to Hitler's demise. A nondescript building by the river was a former SS Guard post, one of the few visible signs of a dark period of Berchtegaden's history.
Despite its dark past Berchtesgaden is a lovely little city. It has historic buildings and a gorgeous backdrop including Germany's second highest peak.
Because the rain was relentless we spent an enjoyable few hours in Haus de Berg (House of the Mountains) a great little museum all about the wildlife and natural history of the Berchtesgaden national park.
It was instructive and fun with lot of interactive exhibits - and fully indoors. With the rain unrelenting we did what all travellers have to do eventually - visit the local launderette. After 2 weeks on the road we needed some clean clothes - so after a wash cycle and tumble dry we could look forward to travelling through the rest of Germany looking clean, albeit a little crumpled.
It was time to start driving home - although we still had a lot of stops on the way. So with the promise of better weather we set off the next morning headed towards Bavaria's largest lake, Chiemsee, and another encounter with Mad King Ludwig.
I never had much interest in skiing as a sport but it was a TV programme that required minimal effort to watch and was quite soothing. From time to time a presenter would introduce a downhill event from Garmisch-Partenkirchen and for some reason the name stuck. Now, in 2018, I found myself on the road to this place, which many will know is one of the premier alpine resorts in the Bavarian Alps, but prior to my Brexit Exit tour planning had been simply a name to me.
To reach Garmisch-Partenkirchen we took a 'short cut' across Austria, through part of the Austrian Tyrol. Although it was cloudy the scenery was magnificent.
Arriving in Garmisch-Partenkirchen we found our hotel had stunning balcony views of the mountains. Garmisch-Partenkirchen is only a short distance from Zugspitz, Germany's highest mountain at 2,962 m (9,718 ft). Opposite and popular with hikers, is Mount Wank. Mrs B asked me what the meaning of Mount Wank was in English. I explained I wasn't planning to google this in German as I wasn't confident the search results would necessary provide the answers she was looking for = and might lead to some very dubious videos.
The weather had temporarily cooled and we walked into town admiring the painted houses - all telling stories about the town or the occupants. After getting our bearings we settled on a traditional restaurant and had another hearty meal.
 |
| A typical house in Garmish-Partenkirchen |
The following morning the weather remained cool but the summit of Zugspitz was visible so we decided to chance it and go to the very top. Fortunately all the hard work is taken out of this endeavour. A train and cable car combination get you almost to the summit.
We caught the first train near the railway station and the journey started as the train rattled along through the wide, green valley passing farms and small houses. Then we changed trains to a cogwheel train that continued the steeper ascent.
After a while we entered a very long, dark tunnel before emerging at Zugspitzbahn - the terminus of the train, on a plateau about 200 meters below the summit. Before continuing our journey we paused to explore the plateau.
When we'd left the town the temperature had been a pleasant 21 degrees. Up here it was cold - and the wind chill made it feel colder. Flurries of rain and sleet came racing in. Despite this the air was clean and the views were stunning.
A small chapel stood as a tiny outcrop, minuscule against the mountain peaks and louring clouds behind.
 |
| The chapel on the Zugspitz plateau |
It is fair to say its not a wild and desolate spot. Viewing platforms, cable car stations and a restaurant make it quite a commercial operation. The summit is topped by a cross - a common feature in the Bavarian Alps. This part of Germany had, and still has, strong catholic roots.
 |
| Zugspitz summit cross |
As we gazed into the distance an alpine chough landed in front of us, hopped around a bit, and presumably, deciding we were not that entertaining, took to the air to look for something else of interest.
Part of the Zugspitz summit is in Austria so we walked across another border and could, if we had wanted to, taken a cable car down to the Austrian side of the mountain.
 |
| Mrs B undergoing rigorous border checks |
Our return journey was somewhat faster and on the German side. A new cable car descends 2000 meters in 10 minutes to Eibsee, a small glacial lake at the foot of Zugspitz.
 |
| The quick way down Zugspitz (other than falling off) |
 |
| Eibsee from above |
I hadn't planned to circumnavigate Eibsee, even though it was very beautiful but Mrs B took off on a loop path and before we knew it we'd walked around the whole lake, through evergreen forest, the paths dotted with occasional patches of wild strawberries.
 |
| Eibsee |
Soon it was time to move on again We were headed to the most South Easterly corner of Germany and the town of Berchtesgaden. Because we had no real need to hurry, I plotted a leisurely drive through Austria (again) and made a brief detour to Italy (as you do).
We drove over the Brenner pass and crossed the Italian border at the village of the same name, right on the border. It was a strange sort of place. A major transport hub with the road and railway passing through, Brenner has an 'outlet village' (typically corporate and sterile) but also had a hectic local market on the day we visited. I can only guess Italian prices are cheaper than in Austria as lots of Austrians had flocked to the market. The adjoining supermarket had bottles of wine at ridiculously cheap prices. I bought a decent bottle of red for €1.69!
After coffee we returned to Austria and eventually arrived in Berchtesgaden.
Unfortunately our time in this part of Bavaria coincided with 24 hours of persistent rain. This scuppered plans for hiking so we had to look for indoor things to do. Many people visit Berchtesgaden because it is close to Hitler's Eagles Nest. I didn't want to visit this tourist 'attraction'. I accept people have a historical interest in Hitler's life, but I felt no need to participate. This part of Germany was a Nazi stronghold in the 1930's through to Hitler's demise. A nondescript building by the river was a former SS Guard post, one of the few visible signs of a dark period of Berchtegaden's history.
 |
| The former SS Guard Post, Berchtesgaden |
Despite its dark past Berchtesgaden is a lovely little city. It has historic buildings and a gorgeous backdrop including Germany's second highest peak.
 |
| The Old Town, Berchtesgaden |
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| Mrs B at Haus de Berg - with a new friend |
It was time to start driving home - although we still had a lot of stops on the way. So with the promise of better weather we set off the next morning headed towards Bavaria's largest lake, Chiemsee, and another encounter with Mad King Ludwig.
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