Alsatian Adventures
Gérardmer is a small town that sits at the head of a lake (the Lac de Gérardmer) surrounded by the pine forests and mountains of the Vosges. It was to be our base for a couple of days as we explored this part of France, which lies close to the German Border. It had taken a few hours to drive to this part of France - around 195 miles - but this was because we got sidetracked, having stopped for a picnic on the way and then walked into the forest following a trail that led to the top of some waterfalls. There was no obvious safe way to get down so we retraced our steps and simply admired the waters crashing down 30 meters or so into a stream at the bottom.
Our hotel for this part of the journey, Le Reflects du Lac (or reflections of the lake) was very pretty, a chalet style building perched above the lake.
Our room had a balcony with stunning views out across the lake with the town of Gérardmer at the opposite end from our hotel.
After unloading the car we set off to explore, following a lakeside trail for about a mile and a half until we got to the town itself. It was a warm, sunny weekend so the centre was bustling. Shops, cafes and bars were doing a roaring trade although we soon discovered none of the restaurants opened for evening meals until 7.00pm. I had to buy Mrs B an ice cream to keep her from diving into a fast food emporium.
At 7.00pm, on the dot, we got a table at a very decent pizza restaurant and service was swift, much to my relief. Brexit Exit mutiny averted!
After a very good and very filling pizza we returned by the lakeside path having clocked up 10.5 miles of walking as well as all the driving. Needless to say we didn't have a late night!
After breakfast the next day we set off in the car to explore the area - with no particular plan in mind. I like the spontaneity of travel and today the idea was to look for 'interesting' road signs and follow wherever they took us. It wasn't long before a sign caught my eye and we found another beautiful lake called Lac de Longemer. At the head of the lake, on a small hillock, was a delightful little chapel. From what I could gather (my French being rudimentary) a chapel had stood on the site since 1449 and been reconstructed in 1727.
There appeared to be a way to circumnavigate the lake on foot - so despite the previous day's exertions I persuaded Mrs B we should see where the path took us.
Around the lake we went, taking in the wonderful views and eventually finishing up where we started about 4 miles later. After this peaceful way to start a Sunday morning we carried on driving and eventually arrived in a small town called La Bresse. On the way into town a wooden structure by the roadside had caught the eye. It turned out to be an adrenaline experience centre and for quite a lots of euros you could zip wire or do a double (two people together) bungee jump. Despite the discounts offered for multiple activities Mrs B. declined the chance to be dropped head first towards a rocky stream - even with me strapped to her! Instead we carried on to the centre of town to find a lively bustling market selling everything under the sun.
Cooked chicken, colourful baskets and strimmers were part of the eclectic ranges of wares on sale.
After a picnic we continued meandering in the car and drove over a 3000 ft high pass (after a series of steep hair pin bends), eventually stopping in a small village called Wildenstein. It had been noticeable that houses and places had taken on a more Germanic appearance as we had travelled around this part of France. This was perhaps unsurprising as we were now in Alsace - a region that has alternated as French or German territory over the years.
In Wildenstein I noticed that the street signs reflected this history. The road to the church, 'Rue D'Eglise' was also (in slightly smaller) writing called 'Kirchstraße'. Perhaps the local council or whoever is responsible for street signage is hedging their bets...
Another quirky thing. We had seen a high number of Alsatians (people) walking Alsatians (dogs) - so pondered if any other type of dog breed was permitted in this part of France?
Eventually we headed back to our hotel, freshened up and walked into Gérardmer for the last time to find somewhere to have dinner. We settled on a small restaurant, called L'impasse du 32, which served some very good food. I was also tempted by a dessert called 'café gourmand'. This is an espresso coffee accompanied by lot of mini desserts and it was both tasty and impressively presented. Its apparently quite a foodie thing.
Mrs B. had declared herself full after her main course...but somehow managed to help me with my dessert...as usual!
We had one more destination before leaving France - the capital of Alsace, home of the European Parliament and European Court of Human Rights: Strasbourg. An appropriate if somewhat ironic destination for a Brexit Exit tour.
Our hotel for this part of the journey, Le Reflects du Lac (or reflections of the lake) was very pretty, a chalet style building perched above the lake.
Our room had a balcony with stunning views out across the lake with the town of Gérardmer at the opposite end from our hotel.
After unloading the car we set off to explore, following a lakeside trail for about a mile and a half until we got to the town itself. It was a warm, sunny weekend so the centre was bustling. Shops, cafes and bars were doing a roaring trade although we soon discovered none of the restaurants opened for evening meals until 7.00pm. I had to buy Mrs B an ice cream to keep her from diving into a fast food emporium.
At 7.00pm, on the dot, we got a table at a very decent pizza restaurant and service was swift, much to my relief. Brexit Exit mutiny averted!
After a very good and very filling pizza we returned by the lakeside path having clocked up 10.5 miles of walking as well as all the driving. Needless to say we didn't have a late night!
After breakfast the next day we set off in the car to explore the area - with no particular plan in mind. I like the spontaneity of travel and today the idea was to look for 'interesting' road signs and follow wherever they took us. It wasn't long before a sign caught my eye and we found another beautiful lake called Lac de Longemer. At the head of the lake, on a small hillock, was a delightful little chapel. From what I could gather (my French being rudimentary) a chapel had stood on the site since 1449 and been reconstructed in 1727.
There appeared to be a way to circumnavigate the lake on foot - so despite the previous day's exertions I persuaded Mrs B we should see where the path took us.
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| Lac de Longemer, Vosges Mountains |
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| La Bresse market |
After a picnic we continued meandering in the car and drove over a 3000 ft high pass (after a series of steep hair pin bends), eventually stopping in a small village called Wildenstein. It had been noticeable that houses and places had taken on a more Germanic appearance as we had travelled around this part of France. This was perhaps unsurprising as we were now in Alsace - a region that has alternated as French or German territory over the years.
 |
| The church and town hall at Wildenstein |
In Wildenstein I noticed that the street signs reflected this history. The road to the church, 'Rue D'Eglise' was also (in slightly smaller) writing called 'Kirchstraße'. Perhaps the local council or whoever is responsible for street signage is hedging their bets...
Another quirky thing. We had seen a high number of Alsatians (people) walking Alsatians (dogs) - so pondered if any other type of dog breed was permitted in this part of France?
Eventually we headed back to our hotel, freshened up and walked into Gérardmer for the last time to find somewhere to have dinner. We settled on a small restaurant, called L'impasse du 32, which served some very good food. I was also tempted by a dessert called 'café gourmand'. This is an espresso coffee accompanied by lot of mini desserts and it was both tasty and impressively presented. Its apparently quite a foodie thing.
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| My (or should I say our) dessert. |
We had one more destination before leaving France - the capital of Alsace, home of the European Parliament and European Court of Human Rights: Strasbourg. An appropriate if somewhat ironic destination for a Brexit Exit tour.
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